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Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69

Edward Whymper

  • Travel
  • Book language: English
  • 523 pages

Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 is Edward Whymper's travel narrative of his mountaineering expeditions in the Alps. It recounts his climbs, including early attempts on the Matterhorn, and offers vivid descriptions of alpine landscapes and the spirit of Victorian exploration. Worth listening for its firsthand account of adventure and the early days of modern mountaineering.

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Text source: standardebooks.org · The work is in the public domain.

Opening of the book

Preface

In the year 1860, shortly before leaving England for a long continental tour, a certain eminent London publisher requested me to make for him some sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At that time I had only a literary acquaintance with mountain-climbing, and had not even seen —much less set foot upon —a mountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon the list was Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiné.

The sketches that were required of it were to celebrate the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. They came — they saw —but they did not conquer. By a mere chance I fell in with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied this party, and was pressed by him to return to the assault. In 1861 we did so, with my friend Macdonald —and we conquered. This was the origin of my

Scrambles amongst the Alps.

The ascent of Mont Pelvoux (including the disagreeables) was a very delightful scramble. The mountain air did not act as an emetic; the sky did not look black, instead of blue; nor did I feel tempted to throw myself over precipices. I hastened to enlarge my experience, and went to the Matterhorn. I was urged towards Mont Pelvoux by those mysterious impulses which cause men to peer into the unknown. This mountain was reputed to be the highest in France, and on that account was worthy of attention; and it was believed to be the culminating point of a picturesque district of great interest, which was then almost unexplored! The Matterhorn attracted me simply by its grandeur. It was considered to be the most completely inaccessible of all mountains, even by those who ought to have known better. Stimulated to make fresh exertions by one repulse after another, I returned, year after year, as I had opportunity, more and more determined to find a way up it, or to prove it to be really inaccessible.

A considerable portion of this volume is occupied by the history of these attacks on the Matterhorn, and the other excursions that

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Contents

  1. Preface
  2. Notes to the Preface of the Fifth Edition
  3. Epigraph
  4. Frontispiece
  5. A: The Death of Bennen
  6. B: Struck by Lightning Upon the Matterhorn
  7. C: Subsequent History of the Matterhorn
  8. D: Table of Attempts Made to Ascend the Matterhorn Previous to the First Ascent
  9. E: Ascents of the Matterhorn
  10. F: Courte Note sur la Géologie du Matterhorn
  11. G: Stratification of Snow and Formation of Glacier-Ice
  12. H: Denudation in the Valley of the Durance
  13. Maps
  14. Endnotes
  15. List of Illustrations

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